Centennial Beckoned Last Week…
November 2007
By Cat Robinson
Trip Participants: Garth London, Robert Hawes, Craig Robinson , Catriona Robinson, Terry (“the Machine”) Crippen, Glen Millar, Trey Guinn, Neville Palmer
Eight members took part in a Wellington Section Southern Alps trip from 10-18 November, based out of Centennial Hut on the Franz Josef glacier.
As our helicopter crept up the sides of the glacier on Day One towards some fairly ominous clouds, some of us may have wondered what we were flying into. But we needn’t have worried - we emerged into brilliant sunshine, highlighting the expansive snowfields and the exciting variety of peaks that surround the hut. The trip was suddenly looking very promising indeed.
Next morning we prepared for our first adventure: the Minarets (3040m). We were away well before first light for the 3km approach across the glacier, our crampons crunching satisfyingly in crisp snow. By dawn we had reached the foot of the slope which would lead us up onto a plateau separating the two Minarets from neighbouring De La Beche (2950m). Six soloed the slope, while two pitched it. This provided a valuable practical lesson in the amount of time that pitching uses up - an additional ¾ hour for three pitches.
A small snow plateau at the top of the slope provided a good spot to re-fuel before turning our attention to the Minarets. The ascent (up the northwest face) is fairly easy. From the summit (especially on a cloudless day) you gain a stunning panorama right across the vast Mount Cook region as well as various glaciers.
Some then proposed an ascent of De La Beche, given that we were so close. The “speedsters” of the group set off, sidling below the ridge and skirting a marked schrund before tackling the steep north face and then mixed snow and rock to the summit.
The next morning dawned fine again, and the more energetic of the party leapt out of bed to climb Aurora (2685m). As I was among the (majority of) group members who chose sleeping bag over mountain, all I can say is that they seemed from the hut balcony to be moving fast and well, nothing very technical required, and they were back at the hut about 4 hours after they left (perhaps earlier).
In retrospect, perhaps the rest of us should have forced ourselves out of bed after all, as that morning was the last of the good weather in the hills for us. By lunchtime the wind had increased, the cloud swirled in and the snow was on its way. For the next two days we all had more than enough time to hang around in our sleeping bags, hut-bound by a southerly front bringing 30cm of new snow. Plenty of time to swap tall stories and compare climbing gear !
Finally, two days later, the weather cleared and the helicopter returned. Despite our natural desire to stay on, the reality was that it would take at least two days for all the new snow to consolidate - more time than we had, and probably more time than the new weather window would allow. There was nothing for it but to pack and depart - and promise ourselves that we’d be back.
Thursday was wet again, necessitating sampling of the Fox café culture. But by Friday we were back outside, this time gearing up to play in the ice of the Franz Josef Glacier (and give the tourists a bit of a thrill).
Overall, despite the weather disappointments mid-week, it was a great trip spent with a lovely group of people. We got more done than we might have, and got to spend time in a pretty amazing part of the country.
Thanks to all - and especially to Garth London for his organisation.