The Latest from Mike O’Brien - Moonarie

I first heard of Moonarie from chatter around the Arapiles camp ground. Tempting tales of great routes in the outback that are seldom climbed and have a serious and isolated feel about them. 

We arrived after dark and the sight of the scorched red sandstone glowing in the light of the golden sunrise was promising. The scale of the cliffs became apparent during the hour long hike in. To the left and right, the cliffs stand solemnly with blank faces, broken by bulging buttresses and soaring corners. These main cliffs offer 3-4 pitch adventure climbs. However the highlight of Moonarie is the 50m Great Wall, sitting proudly at the end of the crag. The Great Wall is a slightly concave, blank looking wall, which is covered in 3 star classics. People rate these routes among the best they’ve ever done; they’re amazing!

Location
In the Flinders Ranges, South Australia, about 5 hours drive north of Adelaide. The campsite is about 10 minutes drive from Wilpena Pound Resort, and from camp it’s an hour walk up the hill to the crag.

Climbing
Predominantly trad routes from 45 to 130m long. Decent from the top usually involves a scramble down the central gully. Bring a full trad rack.

Grades
9 – 28. Great long classic adventure routes from grade 12. 550+ routes.

Season
The area is on the fringe of the dessert, meaning summer is hot and winter is cold. March to May and September to October are the best months.

Accommodation
Free camping under native Calatris Pines, on private land. The track from the road is usually okay for 2WD. No water or loos, so bring a shovel! Alternatively, Wilpenna Pound Resort has cabins etc, and is a ten minute drive away. 

Services
Stock up on the way there as Wilpenna Pound Resort is very expensive. There are climbing stores in Adelaide.

Guidebook
‘Moonarie: A Rockclimber’s Guide’, by Tony Barker, is the only guide to Moonarie. It’s vague, full of errors, and hard to use. Although it looks like a relic from the 70’s, the last edition was actually published in 2000. Check www.climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.au for updates.

Restday Activities
The Flinders Ranges are spectacular Australian style; baren, red, vast etc. Fun to explore for a day or two, but look out for emus and roos!

References
www.chockstone.org, or www.climbingclubsouthaustralia.asn.auto contact Adelaide climbers, and getting answers to Moonarie questions.

And Remember…
….amazing burgers at the Port Augusta Truck Stop, just off the main road, and ‘Downwind of Angels’, 19, is THE most amazing climb ever!