Margaret River

Mike O’Brien writes:

Hi Rach. I’m dying. The weather is dreadful… sticky, hot and humid. I’ve been stuck inside for days. It’s too hot and humid to go out, and I miss climbing. I can’t even swim at the beach, because of the deadly jellyfish. Time to reminisce…

Margaret River is another of those iconic Australian destinations. The Margaret River region in Western Australia is a regarded by many Aussies as a small corner of paradise; the gourmet foods, wine and beautiful beaches draw hordes of people seeking to unwind and live it up. For climbers, the allure of the region lies with the small seaside crag of Willyabrup. Despite the less than inspiring name, Willyabrup offers some great short routes, and with the fantastic rest day options nearby, it’s yet another crag worth visiting.

Location
All the way over in Western Australia – but worth the trip if you combine it with a visit to West Cape Howe. A few hours south of Perth. Willyabrup crag is a 5 minute stroll from the car park, and sits beside the Indian Ocean.

Climbing
Short routes up to 30m, predominantly trad with the odd carrot and staple bolt. Well featured rock, with horizontal and vertical cracks, slabs, and little rooflets. Parts of the crag are popular with commercial groups, so quite a few bolted anchors along the tops.

Grades
Good range, but knock a couple of grades off if there has been an off shore wind, as the rock will be a little greasy.

Season
The area is at its best in summer, but is good all year round. Avoid the school holidays if possible.

Accommodation
Great DOC style camping spots, with good facilities. Heaps of other accommodation options, from basic to ultra luxurious.

Services
Stock up on climbing gear in Perth, otherwise you’ll be able to get all you could possibly want and more in Margaret River and surrounding wineries etc.

Guidebook
Margaret River Rock, by Shane Richardson, Stone Publications, is pretty good. It also details the other little crags in the area.

Rest Day Activities
You will truly be spoilt for choice! Spending a couple of days ambling from winery to winery is highly recommended. Alternatively, the surf is great, as are the many caves.

And Remember
Satiating your every desire is the main pursuit in Margaret River – don’t be surprised is you never quite make it to the crag….