More from Mike - Mt Buffalo
Mt Buffalo is the premier Granite climbing area in Australia. It covers a huge area, comprising a 300m deep gorge that cleaves into the side of the mountain with sheer intimidating sides, and a variety of steep slabby domes and outcrops that perch on the top.
The area is rich in climbing history, with the first routes being done in the 1930’s. Buffalo has a reputation as being a place that humbles climbers. Perhaps this is due to the coarseness of the granite, which will chew your skin off if you don’t treat it with respect. Or perhaps it’s because the carrot bolts on the slabs are so run out. Or maybe it’s the dramatic and committing abseil into the overhanging gorge walls that do it. Whatever it is that give Buffalo its aura, it makes Buffalo well worth a visit, especially if you know Arapiles inside out!
Location
Victoria, about 4 hours drive North West of Melbourne. The camp and climbing areas are all located on the top of the Mountain, a windy 30 minute drive from the valley below. The area is a popular tourist destination, so most climbing areas are accessed by short well maintained tracks.
Climbing
The gorge and surrounding areas all host trad and bolted routes, on gnarly cracks and slabs, from 30 to 300m long. Buffalo is also the home of Australia’s aid climbing scene (such as it is now days). The bolts are usually carrots, so pick up some hangers in Melbourne. If abseiling into the gorge, protect your rope as the rock is sharp.
Grades
9 – 32. Knock a grade or two off when you first arrive, as the climbs are generally solid at the grade. The saying goes that “If you climb in gyms, add 5 grades, if you climbed in the 70’s take 5 off”! The slabs have a well earned reputation as being very run out too.
Season
Buffalo is in the Alpine region. Summer is perfect (when Arapiles and Grampians are sweltering). Due to the size of Buffalo you can always find a shady climb. Winter is cold; when it snows in Australia, it snows here first.
Accommodation
Lake Catani campsite is in the middle of the climbing areas, and is a great DOC like camping ground, with hot showers. The small lake offers great swimming in summer. The camp is popular with the general public during holidays, so book ahead at these times. Otherwise there are many campsites on the valley floor, a 30min drive away.
Services
Stock up on climbing gear and groceries on the way out of Melbourne. The last fuel stop is the little town of Myrtleford, which also has a supermarket. The water at camp is untreated but seems okay.
Guidebook
The VCC (Victorian Climbing Club) have recently published an excellent guide to Buffalo; ‘Mt Buffalo:a rock-climbers guide. Edition 5’, Kevin Lindorff & Simon Murray, 2006, VCC, Melbourne. Be aware that this ain’t Arapiles; finding your climb in some areas will take a little time. Some of the best climbs are off the tourist tracks a little! It is worth getting in touch with the VCC, to see if you can organise a trip with someone who knows the area.
Restday Activities
The valley below Buffalo is earning a well deserved reputation as a gourmet region. Fine wines and food await – don’t miss the King River Café, and The Berry Farm. There are pleasant alpine walks across the alpine plateau on the Mt, and cross country skiing in the winter.
References
www.chockstone.org is the most frequented and active Australian climbing website. Here you can get the answer to any climbing/Buffalo related question. www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for camping info. www.vicclimb.org.au for the VCC.
And Remember
I’m not a fan of taping up for jamming, but I tape up to climb at Buffalo! This place is a slab and crack climbers paradise.