Stéphan Willemse Stéphan Willemse

The Latest from Mike O’Brien - Moonarie

Trad climbing on red sandstone in the Flinders Ranges, South Australia, with long multi-pitch routes on the main walls and standout single-pitch classics on the Great Wall. Remote, seldom-climbed, and well worth the drive from Adelaide.

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Scotties Freezes His Piglets

A winter ascent of Nuns Veil with a high camp on the saddle in testing conditions. Summit reached in cold wind and blue sky, though one member turned back early with frostnip and the party descended quickly to Unwin.

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Chamonix Adventures

A few days in Chamonix tackling alpine routes above the valley, including the South Ridge of Chappelle de La Gliere and the Couloir de Table on Aiguille Le Tour. Good conditions on both, with the usual summer crowds on the popular lines.

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And the last word goes to Nank…

A Queen's Birthday trip into South Wye Creek via Skingut Pass, aiming for Point 2307m. Perfect weather, deep snow, and a navigational detour to the wrong summit saw the party turn back one ridge short.

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More from Mike - Mt Buffalo

Trad and sport climbing on granite at Mt Buffalo in Victoria, covering the dramatic gorge walls and slabby domes on top. Solid grades, run-out slabs, and coarse rock that earns its reputation.

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Stéphan Willemse Stéphan Willemse

Ball Pass - Five cross in fine weather!

A two-day traverse of Ball Pass in a weather window, bivouacking at Caroline Hut before crossing to the Hooker Glacier at dawn. Good conditions, great views, and a well-timed exit before the weather closed in.

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Tearing Up the Tasman

A week at Pioneer and Centennial Huts on the Fox Glacier neve, with ascents of Mt Haast, the Minarets and several smaller peaks. Mt Tasman was attempted but turned back due to soft conditions; good weather throughout kept options open.

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Stéphan Willemse Stéphan Willemse

A Momentary Lapse

A weekend on Ruapehu combining ice climbing and ski touring, with routes on Pink Floyd Buttress and Moonshine Buttress in reasonable conditions. Good spring skiing on the Pinnacle Ridge, and one unplanned high-speed slide that ended badly but without serious injury.

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Stéphan Willemse Stéphan Willemse

Finding Mount Doom

A September crossing of the Tongariro with a summit of Ngauruhoe, camping overnight in the central crater. Good snow conditions, a long bum slide on the descent, and a fine clear day on top.

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Stéphan Willemse Stéphan Willemse

Faerie Queene - Upon a great adventure he was bound

A Queen's Birthday weekend ascent of Faerie Queene via Camera Gully on the St James Walkway, with waist-deep unconsolidated snow making for a hard day. Two of the party reached the summit after a 13-hour round trip, with a stop at Maruia hot pools on the way out.

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Stéphan Willemse Stéphan Willemse

New Routes down South

A four-day southern trip taking in the Hooker Glacier and a new route on the Tenderfoot Wall on Mt Glen Lyon in the Ohau Range. The wall gave around 400m of climbing to the summit, with two bivvies along the way.

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Stéphan Willemse Stéphan Willemse

Ten Take On Tapi

A four-day Labour Weekend trip to Tapuae-o-Uenuku via the Hodder River, with a summit reached on the third day after a failed attempt in thick cloud. Ten members, 70 river crossings, and a five-minute weather window on top.

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Ski Touring at Aoraki Mt Cook

A week of ski touring in the Mt Cook area, flying into the upper Murchison Glacier and skiing out via Tasman Saddle. Mt Sydney King was reached in good conditions, Elie de Beaumont turned back by schrund difficulties, and a pulled muscle cut the trip a day short.

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Thumbs Up!

A Labour Weekend ascent of the Two Thumbs via Bush Stream, with two routes taken to the shoulder before a combined summit push to 2546m. A useful alternative when the Cook weather doesn't play along.

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Stéphan Willemse Stéphan Willemse

TimTams at Tukino

A ski touring weekend at Tukino, with a moonlit approach to Whangaehu Hut and a long day taking in Paretetaitonga's east ridge and the Mangatoetoenui Glacier. Good powder conditions, fine food, and a route out through the Whangaehu Gorge on the second day.

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Stéphan Willemse Stéphan Willemse

Ringatoto via Mitre

A winter ascent of Mitre (Ringatoto) via the east ridge, with a snow cave camp on the Tufa Spur the night before. Perfect conditions on summit day, with the crux a steep 10m step climbed unroped at dawn.

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Stéphan Willemse Stéphan Willemse

Mt Whitcombe - a Non-ascent

An attempt on Mt Whitcombe washed out by severe weather, with Mt Lord climbed instead. The walk out provided the most drama, with a rockfall on a flooded river terrace that came uncomfortably close.

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Stéphan Willemse Stéphan Willemse

Tasman Saddle

A week out of Tasman Saddle Hut with a large group, bagging several peaks including Mt Green, Mt Aylmer and Mt Abel between weather windows. Two days pinned down by a severe weather warning, with good humour intact throughout.

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Mt Adams on Labour Weekend

A Labour Weekend ascent of Mt Adams on the West Coast, reaching the summit at 2208m via an 800m ridge and steep snow. A wet final night and a race to beat a Christchurch party to the top.

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