NIWA had promised the best summer weather for years, and so it was
A productive autumn covering Mt Hamilton's east ridge, a traverse of the Olivine Ice Plateau with an ascent of Climax, the west ridge of Stargazer and the full northwest ridge of Aspiring, finishing with Mt Irene in the Murchison Mountains. Several bivies, some storm-bound waiting, and good conditions on the key days.
Spending Easter in the Garden of Eden
An Easter traverse from the Clyde to the Garden of Eden via Perth Col and Adams Col, exiting down Adverse Creek and the Perth. Weather-dependent travel throughout, with a flooded river forcing a longer exit via Whataroa.
A Garden of Eden Crossing
A ten-day Garden of Eden trip via helicopter to the Lambert Tops, exploring the Garden of Allah and Adams Col area before exiting down the Perth. No technical climbing, but excellent remote travel in a rarely visited part of the West Coast.
Summer Rock 2008
A student's account of the section's Summer Rock course, from Tuesday nights at Ferg's through to weekend trips at Wharepapa South and Whanganui Bay. Covers the full arc from first moves on a bouldering wall to leading outdoors.
Taranaki Rock
A weekend of rock climbing on the Organ Pipes at Taranaki, with eleven members working routes in the grade 14-16 range around the Left Nostril. Good rock and accurate guidebook grading, with rain ending play on Sunday.
The Paringa
A multi-week southern summer covering Mt McCullaugh via the Paringa, a look at Earnslaw, and an Arawhata-Joe River circuit with an attempt on Destiny Ridge that turned back at 2080m. Good travel and route-finding throughout, with Destiny left for a better season.
Hamilton (The Mountain…)
A possible new route on the west face of Mt Hamilton via the Bonney Glacier, with nine pitches to the ridge and an unplanned bivy before reaching the summit the following morning. Useful notes on Tasman moraine conditions and a recommended descent variation included.
Margaret River
Short trad routes on a seaside crag beside the Indian Ocean, with horizontal and vertical cracks, slabs and small roofs up to 30m. The climbing is almost secondary to the wineries, surf and beaches nearby.
A Year in Antarctica
A year of dispatches from Scott Base, covering SAR training, Antarctic peaks, polar winter conditions, and the daily realities of wintering over. Written by Wellington Section member Pete de Joux.
Centennial Beckoned Last Week…
Eight members based out of Centennial Hut on the Franz Josef neve, with ascents of the Minarets, De La Beche and Aurora in a good early window. Two days pinned down by a southerly front mid-week before the weather cleared for the flight out.
Possible New Route on Hopeless
A long weekend in Nelson Lakes with parties splitting across Mt Hopeless, Mt Travers and Mt Cupola. The Hopeless group had an eventful descent involving seven unplanned abseils before reaching easier ground after dark.
It’s not all about NZ mountains…
A Pyrenees circuit taking in the Cirque de Gavarnie and a summit of Le Taillon at 3144m, with gourmet food, cheap Spanish beer, and a notably light pack. Not every trip needs crampons.
Mt Taranaki
A weekend ascent of Taranaki via the North Ridge in good conditions, with a quick summit and a fast descent on softening snow. A solid trip for putting AIC skills into practice.
For Whom the Bell Tolled…
A winter ascent of Chiming Bells on Whakapapa with a snow cave night on the traverse. Borrowed gear, limited ice screws, and a soak in Tokaanu to finish.
Andrew’s Adventures
A 2004 AIC graduate reflects on the path from tentative beginner on Taranaki to guiding Ball Pass and working towards NZMGA assessment. A good illustration of where the course can lead.
Tahurangi Peak & First Finger Gully
A weekend on Ruapehu with a summit of Tahurangi in excellent conditions on Saturday and an ice skills day in First Finger Gully on Sunday. Good weather above the cloud both days, and a lot of firsts for several members of the group.
Did I Mention the Wind?
A windy weekend at Whangaehu Hut on Ruapehu, with a circuit taking in the Summit Plateau, Crater Lake and Dome between the gusts. Two rough nights in a hut that shook all weekend, and an iced-shut door on the way out.
“He’s turning into an Aussie….!”
Trad climbing in the Kimberley and Northern Territory on excellent quality rock, with plenty of scope for new routes. Remote, hot, and unlike anywhere in NZ — best visited in the dry season.
Grand Cojones in the Bugaboos
A week in the Bugaboos with the Vancouver section, with ascents of Pigeon Spire's west ridge and the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire. Good conditions and classic routes, though two accidents in the party required helicopter evacuations.